I missed a year of surfing

I missed a year of surfing

January 3, 2021

2020 is the first year I haven’t gone surfing.

I go once a year at least because there’s something refreshing, healing, and invigorating about grabbing a surfboard and facing mother nature. The thing is, going surfing once a year means I’m not great. But it also means that it’s special every chance I get.

Most of the time I go to Maui. To me, it’s safe and fun. I have friends there. I know where to go surf there and it always helps me reset.

This year I had planned to go around November but for most of the year, Maui was shut down to visitors due to Covid. 

Then they opened up but I got Covid. Talk about a bad break.

But there’s the sense of optimism and hope that comes from looking forward this year in 2021. To that first chance to grab a board and jump into the water.

I’m reminded of how important these types of experiences are in my life. Because 2020 robbed them. And yes I was lucky enough to take advantage of 2020 and set up an incredible opportunity with my startup Performative Speaking and ultimate acquisition by On Deck, but still, I miss the ocean, the ride, and even the pain.

You see, I’m a decent surfer. This also makes me a dumb surfer sometimes. I figure what’s the worst that can happen.

So on a trip to Costa Rica two years ago, a storm had come through and the ocean was angry.

Currents that were risky at best. Waves that were large, heavy, and violent. But I was there to surf.

And it never looks that bad from the shore.

So I grabbed my board and started to paddle out. I was with one other guy I had met down there to surf with. Nobody else was out on the water.

Smart decision.

I think I made it up for a handful of waves but for the most part, I got punished.

Wave after wave crashing on me. Taking me under.

Battered and bruised. But with a huge smile on my face.

I loved it. Looking back it was dumb and could’ve ended really badly but in that moment it was everything I wanted and needed.

The guy I met to surf with had a similar experience and when we were walking back into town we both just looked at each other with that look of we made a mistake but it was worth it.

I’m ready for more of those. I’m ready for the good rides too.

It’s time to get back on the board.

Want to chat? Robbie@beondeck.com

Follow me on Twitter: @robbiecrab

Cover Photo by Jeremy Bishop on Unsplash

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